Personne, in the words of Alexandre Isaie Helwani

In an exclusive interview, Alexandre Isaie Helwani, the master perfumer behind this intriguing creation, revealed the fascinating origins of this project. From the initial inspiration drawn from the Odyssey to the artistic collaboration with visual artists, musicians, botanists, and intellectuals, each step of this adventure was carefully orchestrated to create a unique essence. We explored with him the story behind the enigmatic name "Personne," the rare ingredients, and the distinctive olfactory notes that compose this perfume, as well as the creative challenges encountered along the way. Discover how "Personne" stands out from other fragrances on the market and let yourself be transported by this new olfactory signature that evokes mystery and timeless elegance.

Alexandre Isaie Helwani

Could you tell us how and why the 'Personne' project came to life, and what was the starting point for this olfactory adventure inspired by the Odyssey?

The first opus of Les Jardins Promis, Personne is a fragrance informed by the essences of the Odyssey. It is an entirely natural olfactory work that continues the Les Jardins Promis project, initiated by Laurent Derobert at the invitation of the Ministry of Culture for Mondes Nouveaux. This project aims to offer a botanical interpretation of the Odyssey, derived from its vegetal narrative.

Through this multidisciplinary collaboration, involving visual artists, musicians, botanists, and intellectuals, an informal collective was formed. Personne, the epic fragrance, is the elixir of these dialogues. This olfactory nostos, conceived by Olivia Bransbourg and created by perfumer Alexandre Helwani, offers a more immediate interpretation of the Odyssey through the essences that Ulysses and his crew themselves encountered.

What is the story behind the name "Personne"? 

The story of the name "Personne" is the story of Ulysses himself. Captured by Polyphemus, the Cyclops and son of Poseidon, the industrious Ulysses—as Homer calls him—manages to escape but cannot resist boasting. When the Cyclops asks his name, he responds with "Nobody" (in Greek, "Odysseus" and "Outis" sound similar). The Cyclops, with his eye gouged out, tells everyone that "Nobody" inflicted this injury on him, becoming a laughingstock and provoking the wrath of Poseidon, who then decides to prevent Ulysses from returning home. Olivia and I chose this name for the perfume because it is the origin of the story and also because of the polysemy of the word "personne" in French, meaning both "someone" and "nobody." This tension embodies Ulysses, in my interpretation of the Odyssey, and justifies each of his actions in his desire for "nostos," that is, a return not only to his home (Ithaca) but to himself. When he calls himself "Nobody," Ulysses is as if stripped of what makes him a person—his entire odyssey consists of reclaiming his essence, which the perfume symbolizes.

Personne, ICONOFLY

Can you tell us about the duration of the creation process of Personne, from the initial idea to the finalization of the perfume? 

The creation process lasted about six to seven months, which is relatively short and was made possible by extensive preliminary work (notably the botanical notes of Professor Olivier Dubreuil) and numerous trials during this period. This was also due to my aesthetic approach to perfumery, which is rather Platonic (to quote another Greek) and involves organizing everything so that the iconic perfume emerges. Thus, it was not about making endless modifications or exploring different facets but simply creating a perfume whose formula existed, hidden between the lines of the Odyssey.

Which inspirations led you to embark on the creation of Personne?

What better inspiration than one of the foundational texts of European literature? I was fortunate to have grown up with the Odyssey; it was one of the first books I read, and all those fabulous images have cradled, even shaped, my imagination. The key, however, is that I grasped its message differently from when I was a child. The Odyssey is not just a love story; it's a story of resilience. I often say this, but I see the Odyssey as a return to oneself, a life quest, a thirst for life, a struggle against the existential fear of not knowing who you are to the point of being nobody to yourself. Personne had to be a cry for life, a swan song that testifies to the superhuman energy deployed by Ulysses against all odds and sometimes against himself. It needed to possess that electric tension, the density of the wine-dark sea that swallows all hope, and above all, hidden in the middle of this bewildering tapestry, a bright heart, a firmly anchored comfort: the memory of Telemachus and Penelope.

How did the collaboration with visual artists, musicians, botanists, and intellectuals influence the creation of this perfume?

This collaboration generated a movement, an energy without which this perfume would never have come to life. Without the incredible and ceaseless passion of Laurent Derobert, without his poetic understanding of the Odyssey, without the shift he created between the work and its representations, Personne would have been completely different—perhaps more herbaceous and less absolute. Becoming aware of the dimensions through which the Odyssey operated via so many artists and experts, it seemed inevitable to me not to compromise their intention, namely, to encapsulate the essence of the Odyssey in a bottle. It would have been far easier to impose concessions, to resort to synthetics in many places, to do without natural ingredients as difficult to source as they are to use. However, to do so would have been to betray a collective dream, one that belongs not only to this coterie of artists but, ultimately, to anyone who has experienced an Odyssey.

Can you tell us about the key ingredients and olfactory notes that compose the perfume Personne, as well as their importance in the overall composition?

There are key ingredients that contribute to the overall olfactory impression without necessarily being noticeable. I'm thinking particularly of Poplar Bud, Raspberry Leaf, and Carob Bean Resinoid, which, without being prominent, give Personne its unique texture and depth. The Poplar Bud blends wonderfully with Immortelle Absolute, enhancing its honeyed and fruity effects while toning down its potentially unpleasant curry note; the Raspberry Leaf supports the green aspect of the Fig Leaf accord; and the Carob Bean imparts a chocolatey, fruity, almost buttery note that amplifies the Date and Sweet Wine facets. Another essential material is the Laminaria Algae Resinoid, which grounds Personne in a chypre structure. It has remarkable hay and oakmoss effects and supports both the saltiness and animalic aspects of the perfume. I also think of Olive Absolute, which adds significant volume to the iodized facet I wanted to highlight in the formula.

Is there a particular season or time of day you would recommend for wearing this perfume?

I believe the inherent complexity of Personne makes it quite versatile. In summer or hot weather, all its most honeyed, animalic, and balsamic notes will come to the forefront. In cooler weather, it tends to shift toward chypre and aromatic tones. I don't see it as a spring fragrance, given that it was created with the idea of intense heat in mind and isn't floral at all. Due to its thickness, I tend to prefer it in warm weather; due to its rather hieratic structure, I like to wear it in the evening, as it dresses one up.

Can you choose three words to describe Personne?

Cunning - Tenderness - Hope.

But also...

Olfaction. Saturation of the senses. A drop, a poem. A fragrance, a vow.

What particular challenges did you encounter during the development of this perfume, and how did you overcome them?

The first challenge was the use of 44 ingredients in a perfume that had to be 100% natural. Aesthetically, it was crucial to avoid creating an overly complex fragrance and to leave enough room for each ingredient to express itself, which I believe was achieved through careful micro-dosing. I was also fortunate to work with incredibly potent materials effective in trace amounts, less than 0.1%. The second challenge was related to naturality: Personne needed to contain two accords—a Fig Leaf accord and a marine accord—both of which are easy to produce synthetically (the Fig Leaf is primarily composed using Stemone, which has its scent; the iodized effects with molecules like Calone) but challenging to replicate naturally. For the Fig Leaf accord, I relied on my nose. I evaluated this Stemone during several sessions, comparing it with natural fig leaf and using my olfactory organ to reproduce each micro-facet. For the iodized effect, it's a combination of several materials: Laminaria algae, olive, ambergris, coriander, hemp, and laurel.

If you've been captivated by this olfactory story, it's time to let yourself be carried away by this fragrance, available for exploration in a sample size. A nd if you've already tried it, we look forward to hearing your impressions.