A brief history of perfume...

Perfume has, as it were, always been an inherent part of human life. Although it is used in many different forms and for many different purposes, it has always retained a significant importance and an image of luxury throughout the ages.

The word "perfume" comes from the expression "per fume", which refers to smoke and hence to medicinal and therapeutic inhalations based on religious rituals. In ancient times, perfume was thought to have healing properties as well as a highly sacred dimension. Indeed, the Greeks and Egyptians enjoyed burning aromatic essences as offerings to their deities. They used plants and natural materials to create their fragrances. These took the form of perfumed oils, balms or liqueurs. So it was at this point in history that man began to use perfume, albeit for different purposes.

Illustration of a Scented Apple

It was in the Middle Ages that perfume experienced a considerable boom, thanks in particular to the new raw materials from the Orient. Perfume became an outward sign of wealth, since only the clergy and royalty could afford this kind of fantasy, as the Third Estate was far too busy working to survive. The more affluent proudly displayed their scented apples (see image above) around their necks. Thanks to the discovery of spices during the Crusades, they also made their appearance in perfumes and cooking. It was also at this time that the use of distillation was forged. This technique is based on the evaporation of water vapour and its ability to absorb essential oils. This is a particularly effective method that is still used today. The use of distillation marked a turning point in the history of perfumery. Although at the time perfume was also used to prevent plague and leprosy (which wasn't very effective), it was from here that it became more or less what we know today.

The Renaissance was a pivotal period for perfume, with the discovery of new scents such as musk, vanilla and jasmine, which are essential today. As in the Middle Ages, perfume was used to mark one's high social status, and was therefore a luxury product. The profession of perfumer became legitimate, and perfumers began to flourish on the market, offering their own creations as well as made-to-measure fragrances. The Grasse region in the south of France enjoyed a unique aura and was even considered the capital of perfume, thanks to its unique raw materials.

Empress Joséphine de Beauharnais

In the 19th century, new extraction and manufacturing techniques were introduced. Perfume came to the fore thanks to figures such as Empress Josephine and Napoleon, both lovers of exotic scents and Eaux de Cologne. Throughout the century, perfume found its audience and even began to be industrialised, notably with the arrival of the first synthetic molecules. As for the vaporiser, it was created in 1870 by the writer Brillat Savarin. Some of the houses we know today went on to develop mass production of bottles, notably Guerlain and Pivier. This period marked the beginning of modern perfumery.

The 20th century was the heyday of perfume. It was during this period that immortal perfumes such as Chanel n°5 in 1921, the precursor of the generation of iconic fragrances, were born. Miss Dior, the brand's first fragrance, was launched in 1947, followed by Nina Ricci with l'Air du Temps in 1948.

The 50s really marked the beginning of the democratisation of perfume, which was no longer totally reserved for the rich. The 1980s saw the return of more heady fragrances, while in 1990 the trend was towards sweetness and purity, with the appearance of gourmand fragrances such as Angel by Mugler in 1992.

Zadig & Voltaire "Girls can do anything" campaign

The years 2000 to the present day have seen the advent of a less compartmentalised perfumery: perfumes are becoming less and less gendered. Men's fragrances are becoming more feminine and women's fragrances more impertinent. Niche perfumeries are also becoming increasingly trendy, with a less luxurious but more exclusive image. There's no doubt that perfumery still has a bright future ahead of it, with a host of new technical advances that promise us a bright perfumed future.